Saturday, August 5, 2017

Jawa Costume in a Week - Day Four: sewing the hood

Links to other days:
Day One: research patterns and get supplies
Day Two: dying fabric and making balaclava
Day Three: making the dress
Day Four: sewing the hood
Day Five: making the mask and weathering
Day Six: Boots
Day Seven: Tweaks and Photos

Sewing the Hood

Now the disclaimer: my hood got approved but its not what I wanted. I plan to really change this on version 2.0

Use this as a guide of what to kinda do, and definitely what not to do.

So, let's begin.

I looked at various patterns, and also my friends.

1. I like the pointed hood at the back
2. The hood isn't supposed to be attached
3. The opening has to have something to keep it open
4. It must be lined in same black as mask and balaclava
5. It has long ties that fold over and tuck in


Now the ties: I found seven differing styles and tried to create my own idea. I made an error, was able to fix it, but plan to make it so much better next time.


This is my original concept pattern:


There is just one problem: the side view looks ok, but was not translated into the pattern idea very well. The tails should have gone straight up, not out to the sides. I most likely drew this while distracted or staying up late to work on it. So, needless to say - it needs work and tacking to make it look good - which I did but I can't make someone else do that.

And I thought that if the tails were straight I could leave them on the finished edge and not have to worry about fraying. 

Next time I plan to use this: and with making one already I am pretty confident it will be all that I want it to be.


So let's get on with the insanity, and you all know to use the modified pattern, Ok? Ok!

Step 1: Cutting out tubing and pattern.

Take your tubing and make a circle around your face while looking in the mirror. This is how wide you want it to be. It will overlap but for the most part this is it. I got clear tubing 1/2 inch wide? at hardware store. About a yard will do. (I wish I had gotten thinner tubing and may still do that for version 2)

I first cut out part of my concept of scrap cloth, and it worked great. But it didn't have the ties or I would caught on earlier to my mistake.


Two things to note: The witch's point isn't cut to a point, it has a 1 inch flat part at end that when stitched will go to a point when you turn it inside out. I double-folded and stitched the edge to fit my tubing. My tubing slid in just fine and I loved how it looked.


And the point in the back looked nice too.


So then I cut out the whole hood from my brown cloth. Note the new pattern guides. Use them and be much happier!

I made sure the fold in the cloth was the top of the hood. One less seam, and you can't have a seam on the top of your hood.

Besides the tails, I also curved the back part because it was too long on my test model, but I curved it too much and it was almost too short. Click on the picture to zoom in and see details, especially the witch's point at back.

*Note: See on the pic where is says 18.5 inches, your fold should be there! and I think 18.5 should really be 19.5 - will test in version 2.0




2. And then cut it out of black liner as well. Same size and everything but you don't need the witch's point so leave it out. I used my brown one as a guide and just folded the point in. Worked great.


3. Sew back seams on each one, all seams are 1/2 seam allowance.

I put a pin where it starts to curve around, and you sew from there all the way to the hood point.


Note the shape of the witch's point. Zig-zag edges of hood.


Repeat for the black liner.

*turn brown hood outside in and use pencil to push point out. So it looks nice and pointy!




4. Pin and sew brown hood and black liner together.

Start by putting a pin where the top of the fold is on the brown hood and one on black liner. Brown hood has seam on inside, so black liner has to have seam on outside. (do a sanity check, pin, and turn them around to make sure your seams will be hidden when you are finished)




Turn edge 1/4 inch and stitch to hold it in place and help with fraying. I sewed from center pin down left side, went back to pin and sewed down right side. (Trust me!)


*to be continued...




Links to other days:
Day One: research patterns and get supplies
Day Two: dying fabric and making balaclava
Day Three: making the dress
Day Four: sewing the hood
Day Five: making the mask and weathering
Day Six: Boots
Day Seven: Tweaks and Photos


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